Description: 289 Hipo +PS -PS Ford Mercury Alternator
Year: 1967 (built before Dec 1966)
Model: Mustang, Shelby GT350, Ford, Mercury 289 Hipo with or without power steering
Production date specific: YES, all production before December 1966
Engineering #: C6AF-10300-D
Rear housing type: Round
Output specified on ink stamp: 42 Amps
Actual output: 55 Amps
Fan: 13 blade yellow zinc finish (sold separately)
Pulley: Single sheave 3.78" C5AF-10A352-H (sold separately)
Date Codes: 3 (please indicate your cars production date when ordering)
Warranty: 2 Years (repair or replace)
Returns: 365 Days*
Accuracy Rating: 9.5
Best Repro Available: YES
Jack's Comments:
Our concours correct 1967 Hipo 289 Autolite alternators are built with 100% new components manufactured to our specifications to be reliable and most importantly look factory original. We faithfully reproduced the unique front and rear housings from original Ford engineering drawings, 19 lamination yellow/amber varnished 42 amp stator and we even apply date codes that correspond with your cars production date. Our alternators also come with all the concours correct hardware you need to install the wire harness and fan/pulley.
Concours Notes:
1) Alternators produced for the 1967 model year until November 1966 are just like the 1966 alternators except a second Autolite stamp was applied to the rear housing and the final inspection date code was moved to the back of the rear housing. If your car was produced before December 1966 this is the correct alternator for your car.
2) Sometime around December 1966 Autolite alternators changed over to the teardrop style rear housing. Depending on each assembly plant inventory turn you could see the round or teardrop rear housing in production cars until late December 1966.
3) Starting in 1967 all alternators had two Autolite stamps on the rear housing. The orange Autolite ink stamp color identifies this as a 42 amp alternator.
4) The correct cooling fan has 13 blades and it had a yellow zinc plating (also known as zinc dichromate).
5) The correct pulley for this alternator is a single sheave 3.78" C5AF-10A352-H with a yellow zinc plating (also known as zinc dichromate).
6) The wire harness terminal and nut/pulley hardware had a yellow zinc finish starting in 1967 (included).
7) The tiny dob of light brown sealer seen on the rear housing between the rear bearing hub and the FLD terminal was used to seal a small hole that allowed a pin to be inserted to hold the brushes in place during assembly.
Do you have more concours details you would like to share? Pictures? We don't know everything so please send us an email and we will post your findings and give you the credit.
Questions & Answers:
Q What do you mean the actual output is 55 Amps?
A: The Autolite ink stamps on this alternator will show the factory 42 amp output but we build all our alternators to produce up to 55 amps so it can support some of the modern accessories available today. The alternator will only produce as much amps as your cars electrical syetem demands. Having this slightly larger max amp output will not damage your electrical system and will help the alternator last longer.
Q: How do you decide what date codes are right for my car?
A: When you specify your cars production date we take a look at our vintage calendars and select a day one to one and a half months before your car was built. If you would like to specify a date you want your alternator stamped with just let us know in the Special Instructions: box. Note: The stator was manufactured before the alternator itself so the stator inspection date is typically 7-20 days prior to the alternators two final inspection dates.
Q: I don't have a door tag on my car, what should I do?
A: If you don't have a door tag to get your cars build date you can calculate an approximate production date by locating date codes on your engine, rear axle or sheet metal parts. You can then enter the dates you found in the Special Instructions: box before adding your alternator to your shopping cart. We will use the date(s) you provide us to calculate a appropriate production date for your alternator. Shelby owner? You can contact the Shelby Club for more information about yours cars build date or use the previous described method to estimate your Shelby's production date. If you don't have any build date information or just don't care please choose that you want a generic date code.
Q: Where are the date codes located on the alternator?
A: Month, day, year stamp on the rear housing. Month, day and shift on stator. Shift, month, day and last digit of year on the side of the rear housing.
Q. I have a 1967 Shelby with the amp meter in the console. What terminal do I connect the wire lead from the gauge to?
A. It connects to the STA terminal.
Q I'm running a mechanical voltage regulator. Will this alternator burn up my regulator like the last alternator I purchased at my local Auto parts store?
A: You won't need to buy another voltage regulator. We build our alternators with components that are compatible with vintage mechanical or the new solid state voltage regulators just for this reason. Note: Voltage regulators are the most common reason your battery is not charging or over charging. We suggest you install a new (solid state preferred) voltage regulator with your new alternator just to be safe.
Still have questions? Give us a call at 510-903-1059